Lignorelales: in the middle of a brisk morning in late September chablis wine In the country, grape pickers carry large and heavy buckets on their shoulders, drenched in sweat as they climb the very steep slopes of the Vau de Veuve vineyards. It’s the last day of harvest at the Domaine Roland Laventureux winery, and workers are selecting the last of the prized vines. chardonnay grapes That would eventually translate into a bright and high-end Premier Cru that would be bottled by the estate.
But wine lovers around the world may struggle to get their hands on the 2024 “Millesime” – wine from a single year’s harvest. It will be available in less quantity than usual.
After years of challenges for vineyards and wine quality due to drought and heat, much of France’s wine country faces one of the hottest years ever in 2024 amid a changing climate. But Lavanchurex EstateThe harvest lasted just nine days – about half the usual time – after a year of unexpectedly harsh weather that included frost, hail, record rainfall and the spread of a dangerous fungus that has plagued Chablis growers.
“I’ve been working here since 2010. This is my hardest year,” says winemaker David Lavantureux, who follows in the footsteps of his father Roland, himself a winemaker. “And all the old-timers will tell you the same thing. It’s been a very difficult year because the weather has been so unpredictable. We haven’t been spared a thing.”
This problem started with frost in April. Then in May, a double hail storm hit the area. Then it started raining continuously till the harvest. according to burgundy wine According to the federation, about 1,000 hectares (about 2,500 acres) of vines in the Chablis country area were affected by the May storm. And excess moisture created disastrous conditions mold fungus to thrive.
Disease destroys vineyards
Once established, the disease causes severe crop damage and can also affect wine quality. Together with his brother Arnaud, David worked hard to control the fungus with various treatments, which were washed away by rain and did not prove effective.
“On our property, we’re looking at 60 to 65 percent losses,” David Laventureux said. “It’s going to be a low-yield year.”
The impact of the weather was not limited to the Laventureux estate. Wet conditions across France this year have wreaked havoc on many wine-producing regions. Frost and hail combined with mildew have reduced overall production. The French Agriculture Ministry estimates this will amount to 39.3 million hectares, which is below both the 2023 level (-18 percent) and the average of the last five years (-11 percent).
“It has been a very difficult year, physically and mentally,” says Arnaud. “We’re relieved the harvest is over. I’m tired.”
This year’s challenges will inevitably impact the wines produced at the family winery, resulting in a 2024 vintage with distinctive characteristics.
“The balance is not exactly the same,” says Arnaud. “There’s more acidity. The ripeness is less optimal. But the goal is to prepare the wine so that, in the end, the balance is as perfect as possible.”
adapt to changing climate
Located in the northern part of the Bourgogne region, the vineyards of Chablis have traditionally benefited from a favorable climate – cool winters, hot summers and annual rainfall between 650–700 millimeters (25–27 in).
But Climate change Those conditions are changing, bringing unseasonably mild weather, more abundant rainfall, and more frequent spring frosts that were less common in the past.
Frost damage is particularly frustrating. A similar phenomenon affected French vineyards in recent years, causing large financial losses. And scientists believe devastating frost in 2021 was more likely due to climate change.
“There was a time when we thought that as global warming began, Chablis would be safe from frost,” says David Laventureux. “And ultimately, over the last 15 years, it has come back even stronger.”
To adapt, winemakers are adopting creative solutions. Pruning the vines later delays bud break and reduces the chance of late frost, while keeping larger leaves above the fruit protects the grapes from the scorching heat of the summer.
During the threat of frost, many growers use expensive methods such as lighting candles in the vineyards. They also install power lines to heat the vines, or spray water to create a thin layer of ice on the buds that ensures the flowers’ temperature remains around freezing point but does not drop too low.
Throughout the Burgundy region, anti-hail equipment has also been deployed to reduce the intensity of hailstorms.
“It helps reduce the risk, but it’s never 100 percent protection,” says David Lavantureux. “We saw several hailstorms again this year, two of which were particularly severe.”
looking ahead
Fortunately for the Laventureux family, two very good years in 2022 and 2023 will help mitigate financial losses induced by the low 2024 harvest as international demand for Chablis remains solid, especially in the United States.
In June, the Burgundy Wine Association said Chablis wine exports to the US reached 3 million bottles, generating 368 million euros ($410 million), up 19 percent from the previous year.
“We have put this harvest behind us,” says Arnaud Lavantureux, “now it is time to think about the next harvest.”
