Ranchi: A large number of food items that were once an essential part of any local (tribal and indigenous) thali in the state are no longer able to reach urban markets or supermarkets. These are highly nutritious and flexible superfood items that have gradually disappeared from rural haats. Experts believe there is an urgent need to restore these food security Because climate change is gradually affecting the production of “exotic” foods.
Local Superfood
A typical thali in tribal dominated families Jharkhand There is a power-packed food basket which also has socio-cultural impact on the food habits of non-tribal local people. These foods essentially include a form of millet, a variety of green leafy vegetables (sag), locally grown beans and legumes along with some seasonal dishes such as rugara (hardshell mushrooms) and karil (fermented bamboo shoots). Were included. On some occasions, jackfruit (jackfruit), dau or barhar (monkey jackfruit) and shatoot (mulberry) are some of the local seasonal fruits that can be seen in rural haats but not in fruit markets. Dr Anundhita Bhanjdev, a researcher associated with the International Rice Research Institute and the MS Swaminathan Research Foundation, who has worked on the food habits of the Santal tribe, particularly in Dumka, said local indigenous foods are key to food security as they are nutritious and are necessary. No special attention to farming. Similarly, a team working in Dumka got several food items tested in a UK-based laboratory and identified their exact nutrients.
Why are local superfoods disappearing from plates and markets?
While some food grains (rugra and khukri) have a limited shelf life, the cooking time of some millets (various types of millets) is longer than that of common grains, making millets less preferred. In the absence of experiments by prominent chefs and cooks, the choice of dishes involving leafy vegetables and local legumes is also limited. Furthermore, Green Revolution-focused concerted efforts to promote grains and advertising of imported vegetables such as broccoli and bell peppers made local leafy vegetables symbols of deprivation and poverty. Since these commodities are not driven by market interests, farmers do not choose to grow them commercially and eventually, they even disappear from the kitchens of local families.
Benefits of promoting local food
Dr. Bhanjdev emphasizes on promoting locally available foods as they are not only nutritious but also easy to procure and less dependent on the market. Talking about ‘Abua Jom’ (own food), an initiative launched by ‘Pradhan’ (Professional Assistance for Development Works) in Dumka of Jharkhand and neighboring Jamui district of Bihar, he said that women SHGs were given cooking demonstrations. Participation was encouraged and popularizing local food that was otherwise disappearing. “Such initiatives can create livelihood opportunities for the local people as they will be able to properly know the cuisine and their recipes. These food items can also be used in Anganwadis,” she said.
Balram, the Supreme Court-appointed advisor to the National Food Commissioner in the food-for-work case, said that during a field visit to Palamu in 2002 to study cases of starvation deaths, he came across a family that survived while their Two neighbors died. “The elderly couple had a jackfruit tree and it helped them survive the severe food crisis,” Balram said. He underlined that five trees – jackfruit, papaya, drumstick, guava and banana – can ensure food security for most of the year.
What needs to be done to ensure local superfoods don’t disappear
Both Bhanjdev and Balram said government intervention is extremely important. After conducting extensive research to outline the importance of culturally sensitive dietary recommendations, Dr. Bhanjdev came across a series of videos on the collection, cooking and consumption of Santal food. He also led a project under ‘Pradan’ to create comics for children to learn and understand indigenous food habits. “Government incentives can work wonders as we have seen in the case of millet,” he said. Balram gave the example of Chhattisgarh where the government has taken a policy decision to make millet biscuits a mandatory breakfast in government programs. “We have seen a change in the mindset of people during ‘Mission Meet’. If local foods are available, at least one variety should be included in the Anganwadi or mid-day meal. This approach may change,” he said. Balram also suggested that some indigenous food items should be compulsorily included in the government program menus to increase awareness.
Big companies have started identifying the possibilities
Experts are divided over the interference of MNCs and corporates in popularizing indigenous foods. Recently, jackfruit flour, moringa leaf powder and millet tablets have made their way into many online shopping apps. Balram said that even if marketing companies get involved and local goods become popular, they will still disappear from the plates of local people as they would prefer to sell them rather than eat them. “For food security, we must ensure that some of these foods are retained by telling local people that these are superfoods and should be consumed,” he said.
