“..to me the only people are mad people. The ones who want to live, want to talk, want to have everything at the same time. The ones who never yawn or say anything normal but just burn, Burning, burning like brilliant yellow Roman candles, bursting like spiders across the stars…” – Jack Kerouac Couldn’t have expressed the sparkle of being alive better in one line. Anand Puri When food, nature, travel And he’s definitely one of the “crazy ones”, a real adventurer when it comes to reading the world. This third-generation restaurateur has spent two decades in hospitality, graduated in the field from Cornell University, worked in New York and opened a top B&B in New Delhi. He currently leads Trincas, the iconic establishment in Kolkata that has seen a hugely popular revival over the last few years, becoming a champion of what Kolkata’s past was and what its future potential holds. Anand gets inspiration from travelling. He has been to over 40 countries, exploring the bowls of Eat And history in the back streets of Beijing, learning how to plant coral in remote Papua, visiting local markets in Manipur, finding insider scenes in Reykjavik, and paddling with whales in Antarctica. Their love for food is contagious! In this article he takes us to explore the iconic eateries in the streets of Kolkata that have completed 100 years and are still spreading joy.
“A hundred years ago, the Calcutta of British India was very different from the Calcutta of today. In the 1920s, the Victoria Memorial had just been completed (1921), and grandiose European architecture ranged from the Neo-Gothic style of the High Writers’ Building and the GPO Courts of Neoclassical buildings take up most of the tree-filled lower horizon.
The 1920s were a time when intrepid fortune seekers from all over the world flocked to this erstwhile capital of the British Raj. You can find Italian-owned restaurants like Paletis (after which the liqueur is named!) and Firpo, Swiss confectioners, Chinese carpenters, British department stores, and Jewish bakeries; You’ll also see Indians from far-flung corners of the subcontinent, from Karachi to Dhaka and Srinagar to Madras. Each community brought its own personality, influences, and especially its own food. Over a hundred years, tastes have mixed and changed, giving us one of the most delicious cities in India to visit.
Some food establishments have survived time, migration and phenomenon. Here’s a list of some whose food I particularly enjoy or who tell a unique story. ,
Nahoum and Sons
When I was 8 years old, I was gifted a marzipan cake made in the likeness of my favorite hero He-Man! To this day, it is the most memorable cake I have ever eaten. My action-figure came back to me a week after I borrowed it, and was always a little oily. But, the separation and affection were worth the reward – Nahom had outdone himself!
Established in 1902 by a Baghdadi Jew who came east to seek his fortune, Nahoum’s current winners for me are the baked cheese samosa and the crumb fried fish panteras roll. Not everyone’s favorite, but definitely on my “buy” list, there are also lightly sweet, anise-flavored date cookies that pair perfectly with tea and light watery biscuits that are delicious once you start eating them. The latter are irresistible for their natural hot flavor (it’s also good with dips!); Fair warning – the cheese samosas require reheating in the oven, the date filling in the cookies and the fish filling in the pantras are small in quantity, but delicious and work brilliantly with the textures that surround them.
Address: F20, Bertram St, New Market Area, Dharmatala, Taltala, Kolkata, West Bengal 700087
Siddheshwari Ashram
Near New Market where Nahom is situated, Siddheshwari Ashram is situated. Established in 1928 to provide lunch at reasonable prices to working Bengalis, this is my favorite “peace hotel” in Kolkata. It was so labeled because at one time menus were priced in pennies, and in the vernacular all restaurants and hotels were classified as “hotels”. The operation is owned and managed by the women of the Sen family, who have inherited their late husbands’ shares.
One needs to get here before 2:30pm or risk seeing most of the scribbleboard menu wiped clean. Bengali food is fresh, homely and authentic. The cuisine depends on the season, and there is great variety in their fish and vegetables. Remember that the sweet “chutney” is meant to be eaten after the meal, and don’t scare off other diners by mixing it with your main meal.
Address: 19, Rani Rashmoni Road, Esplanade, Dakshineswar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700087
Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel
Heading north towards the older parts of Calcutta, another hidden peace hotel is the Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel, originally established by Mangobindo Panda in 1912. Rumor has it that Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose often dined here, and along the way the name was proudly modified by adding “Independent India” reflecting the national enthusiasm of the time.
The thing I like the most here is Bhetki Paturi. Fresh water fish wrapped in banana leaves, cooked with ground mustard and chilli, is an easily available dish in Bengal. However, what makes this particular recipe special is the freshness of the fish, the details of the marinade used, and an added layer of edible lau pata (gourd leaves) which once added to that zingy mixture of mustard and chilli Gets covered. The perfect texture counterpart to steamed rice. Please use fingers to eat!
Address: 8/2, Bhavani Dutta Lane, College Square, Kolkata, West Bengal 700073
Girish Chandra Dey and Nakur Chandra Nandi
After a few lanes of North Kolkata’s busy traffic, you find the OG Bengali sondesh made from fresh chhena at Girish Chandra Dey and Nakud Chandra Nandi, which was established in 1844. Visiting this 180 year old sweets maker is a tribute to time and uniqueness. The green iron grill in front of the shop makes the place feel important. It also allows you to see the dark interiors and smell the chenna – it’s not pleasant, but it’s certainly authentic!
Almost all the sondesh here are refreshingly less sweet than other places. You will also be asked when you want to consume your message. You can then make your purchases (and eating decisions for the rest of the day!) based on how long each item will remain tender/fresh.
Address: 56, Ramdulal Sarkar Street, Near Bethune College, Hedua, Kolkata, West Bengal 700006
Eau Chew
Another place where the food and taste feels fresh is Eau Chew. Started by Achumpa Huang in the 1920s as a place where Chinese immigrants to Calcutta could dine, it is the oldest family-owned Chinese restaurant in India. Finding Eau Chew feels like a treasure hunt and adds to the charm. It is located above an abandoned petrol pump and up a flight of concrete stairs.
If you see a metal volcano on the table next to you, it will be the famous chimney soup which consists of broth, noodles, vegetables and proteins, simmering in a ring-shaped dish with a flame in the middle. The fire keeps the soup hot, and adds flavor to this simple comfort food. I particularly like spring chicken that is lightly coated with an almost floral-flavored arrowroot powder and then flash-fried to create a light, clean-tasting snack. Similarly, simply named “Fish and Greens”, there is local bhetki fish steamed with pak choi in light soy sauce, and goes great with steamed rice. I’m a fan of their hiccup-inducing chili sauce, which is mildly sweet and slightly vinegary, and makes for quite an interesting conversation. The food here will not remind you of other Chinese restaurants, but of simpler times and simpler tastes.
Address: 12, Ganesh Chandra Avenue, Esplanade, Chowringhee North, Bowbazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700013
trincas
Started as Swiss Confectionery in British Calcutta in 1927 under Quinto Cinzio Trinca, this iconic name stands for many things ranging from bakery and tearoom; in “night clubs” featuring cabaret and magic shows; Eventually becoming a restaurant with great food and the city’s most famous music venue. Here is a place rich with urban history. People have done it all here – earned their living, started brilliant singing careers, endured broken hearts, spectacles and records, met their future spouses, rubbed shoulders with celebrities, and all that in common. Apart from the fun that can be had in restaurants. Trincas’ history blog and unique social media presence adds to its flavor and gives you a virtual taste of both old Calcutta and modern Kolkata.
Trincas has two live bands (Indian and Western) every evening, and serves superb Continental, Indian and Chinese food. Order the velvety paneer kebab with crunchy onions, enjoy the lychee-flavored Bagan Bari cocktail, and consider asking the people at the next table if they like their butter-filled chicken ala Kiev, which almost pops when bitten. Goes, or its sweet smell. Shepherd’s pie that will make your mouth water. Trincas is a place of vibrancy, whether day or night. The caramel custard at the end of the meal is not to be missed, and if by some strange coincidence the restaurant is not full, it is perfectly normal to get up and dance!
Address: 17 Park Street, Kolkata 700016
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